Genesee Valley Aero Modelers

Editor: Glenn Crocker
21 Highview Trail
Pittsford, NY 14534

I read an editorial in the February Model Aviation magazine about ARF (almost ready to fly), models. The author gave his opinion about the virtues of building versus an ARF, he felt that those who choose only to fly ARFs are missing out on a major part of our hobby. I have to admit that I agree with him, but the ability to buy a fully built model, do the final assembly and be ready to fly in a few evenings, is very tempting. For someone who is short on time or just wants to spend more time flying than building, the current series of high quality ARFs are a great choice.

As I was reading the Editorial, it occurred to me that two of the reasons we build our own planes is to be sure they are built right, and that they are safe. This got me thinking about the safety of our hobby and in particular, our planes. How can we be sure our planes are as safe as possible whether we built them or a factory did? I know it is common for a new member to have his new plane inspected by another, more experienced flyer, but I didn't know if we had a formal rule on it. Instead of just proposing a new rule, I decided, unlike our politicians, I would look up our rules and see what they say.

The current rules are:"Any pilot flying a new, untested aircraft, or model which has undergone major repairs since last flown, must advise all other flyers and request use of entire field when convenient and available."
"Any untested aircraft should undergo a preflight inspection by another pilot before flight"
I found the rules to be well thought-out and well written. I will also admit to not having followed them on one occasion. I had just built a small electric plane and thought it was all set. I did a range check on the radio and asked Stuff Alger to hand launch it for me. After the launch the plane went right into the ground. After the post mortem, I discovered I had the elevator operating backwards. Fortunately the only damage was to the aircraft and my pride. If the circumstances had been different, something else hooked up wrong, or a larger more powerful model, things could have been different, maybe with someone getting hurt! I'm sure you can all think of a time when something similar has happened to you or someone you know.

The point I am trying to make with all of this, is that the inspection of our aircraft by another experienced pilot is an important and necessary safety step before the first flight of a new, repaired or just taken out of storage aircraft. We all are capable of making mistakes no matter how long we've been building or how "expert" a builder we are. An inspection is not just one our rules, but an important step in keeping our hobby as safe as possible. The addition of ARFs just makes things more complicated. Because of this it might be a good time to review our current rules to see if they are still adequate or need to be refined to meet the current needs of our hobby. Please give this some thought and bring your ideas to the next meeting.

As far as I know, we've never had a serious injury from a flying aircraft at our field and I hope we never do. See you at the next meeting.

Max

Every kit begins its instructions with the statement: "start with a flat surface." With models growing beyond 120" in wingspan, this statement presents a challenge. Over the years I have experienced aging of wooden workbenches which were flat when built but which progressively developed warps and sags. Obviously, if we had a workbench which could be leveled on a continuous basis, we would be able to always start with a flat surface. The accompanying drawing and photos describe just that workbench.

The working surface is floating and supported by bolts which are captive both up and down in the base-top, and which are screwed into blind nuts mounted in the sub-frame of the working surface. When you rotate the bolts clockwise, that section of the table is lowered, and when you rotate them anti-clockwise, it is raised. So we have the ability of moving any part of the working surface up or down.

The base is a firm and sturdy frame with a 3/4" spruce ply top. The frame is made from 4" x 4" legs, 2" x 6" top frame, and 2" x 4" bracing. Be sure to add two 2" x 4" cross-braces in the center in line with each of the side legs. With the exception of the base-top, this assembly should be bolted together and leveled to the floor where it will reside. The working surface is a 4’ x 8’ sheet of birch plywood with an outer frame of 3/4" x 1/2" oak. The sub-frame of the working surface is made up of a variety of strips of 3/4" spruce ply, either 2" or 6" wide, to stiffen the working surface and to provide a mount for the blind nuts. This sub-frame is glued and screwed to the working surface bottom and then drilled 1-1/4" deep for the 25 blind nuts. I

chose to use 5/16" x 18 bolts with hex heads to make adjusting easier. The blind nuts are mounted to the sub-frame with two screws each at the circumference to ensure they will not pull out. In order to ensure exact alignment of the bolts, I chose to lay out and drill the holes for them in the base-top and then transfer these holes to the bottom of the working surface sub-frame after the working surface was assembled.

Before mounting the base top on the base, assemble the bolts, washers, and nuts to the base top. Tighten the nuts until the bolts can just turn freely and then Zap the nuts to the bolts. Now screw and glue the base-top to the base. Set the working surface on the bolts and progressively screw each one in until you are satisfied you have adequate vertical adjustment for all situations. Now, using a spirit level and straightedge or transit, level the entire tabletop. It takes a few hours.

When you lay out the placement of the bolts, remember that you need to have convenient access to each and every head on an ongoing basis. So do not locate them too close to the base frame members.

I was unable to obtain bolts of this diameter with a finer thread. Adjustment would be much more accurate with a thread pitch of 24 or higher.

If you plan to use weights for assembly purposes (e.g., skinning foam wings), place the shucks with the weights on the workbench and then adjust the screws for a straight leading and trailing edge.

Re-check flatness before every major critical job to ensure the base has not settled and that the top is flat.

The oak border to the working surface is fastened with countersunk screws and will not deteriorate like pine from much edge-sanding.

Plywood was chosen for the top surface as I like to pin, nail, or screw fixtures to the bench for assembly purposes. If you think granite,

slate, or glass is better, please do not call me.

Author with his 37% Extra 300L.
"It doesn’t get any better than this!"

Table top is fully adjustable to ensure a
perfectly flat-true work surface

The weather has not been cooperating. We have had no snow to fly from and it has been too windy to go with wheels. Maybe we will get a calm warm day or some snow. I vote for the calm warm day.
Charlie showed me his winter project. You would not believe what he is into. Unless you can get him to disclose what he is doing, you will have to wait until spring. Charlie’s project is the equivalent of Dick Parshall building 300S ARF (his favorite).
Remember there are less than 60 shopping days until flying season. If you do fly, watch the trees and if winter does arrive, keep an eye open for snow snakes.

Dues Are Due
 Late Fee Starts on 2/15/02
It’s that time of year again. Club dues are due

Seniors $45.00
Juniors (19yrs or younger) $1.00

Membership renewal was due by December 31st. If dues are not received by February 15th a $10.00 late fee will be assessed.
If you can’t make the meetings you can mail your dues to me. Use the editor’s address on the first page.